Are you considering getting a hamster but are unsure whether you should get a Syrian or a Dwarf hamster? Do you wonder what the difference is between these two breeds regarding temperament and care? Which breed is better to get for kids? Let us help you through the maze!

The Difference Between A Syrian Hamster And A Dwarf Hamster

Physical Features of Syrian and Dwarf Hamsters

Syrians (often called Teddy bears or golden hamsters) are the largest hamster species, about twice the size of dwarfs. We usually see a lot of white or orange-brown-furred Syrians around, and their fur can be long or short. They have short legs and tails, and their ears are naturally larger than the Dwarfs' ears.

Dwarf hamsters are much smaller than Syrian hamsters and come in beautiful colours. We often see grey and white, white and grey, grey and dark, and brown and black. Like the Syrians, their fur is super soft but does not grow long. They have cute, tiny ears, tails, and short legs. 

Both Syrians and Dwarfs have long, sharp incisors in the upper and lower jaw. These incisors keep on growing throughout the hamster's lifespan. As owners, we must provide our hamsters with safe chew toys and dental chews to help them keep their incisors trimmed.

They have a fragile bone structure, so they must be handled gently and not be accidentally dropped. Adult supervision is required when children under 8 years old handle these pets.

How Temperaments Differ Between Syrian and Dwarf Hamsters

All hamsters are instinctively scared of humans, and you may find that your hamster flees from your hand or even screams out of pure horror. But don't worry! You can tame your hamster with patience and love.

Syrians are often easier to handle because they are larger, move slower and are more laid-back than the Dwarfs. They are also less likely to bite or nip than the dwarf hamsters, but owners are advised to be cautious when handling them. Once used to their owners, biting or nipping becomes less. If they bite, it may result from extreme fear, pain, or being startled. (For example, suddenly woken up from a deep sleep.)

Dwarf hamsters are speedy little furballs, and getting a hold of them is often quite challenging. Like their Syrian friends, you can expect nipping and biting during taming. However, Dwarfs tend to continue with this behaviour even when tamed, but their nips and bites may be gentler, simply communicating to their owners that they have had enough of being held and handled.

Both breeds are adorable and entertaining in their own way, and each hamster develops its own preferences and personality, no matter what breed it is.

Hamsters Should Never Be Housed Together

Hamsters are often put in groups in glass tanks at pet shops, and some prospective owners may feel guilty for separating their new hamster from the others in the group. But the fact is, both Syrian and Dwarf hamsters are strictly solitary animals because they are very territorial. If more than one hamster is housed together, they will fight and seriously or fatally injure each other. 

Please don't house two or more hamsters together. If you have children and you want to get a hamster for each child, each hamster will need their own habitat, etc.

The Most Important Basics of Hamster Care

The Correct Habitat for Your Specific Breed Hamster

One of the most essential steps in preparing for your new hamster is to make an informed decision about what housing setup to get. Many first-time hamster owners are guided along the pet shop shelves where all the different-sized wire cages are. 

The truth is that even the largest wire cage on the pet shop's shelves is unsuitable for a hamster to live in and may cause behavioural problems due to stress and frustration. These wire cages are also costly. So, what should a hamster's cage look like, and how big should it be?

The golden rule regarding cage size is to provide your hamster with sufficient unbroken floor space. In nature, hamsters are ground-dwelling creatures with unlimited space to exhibit all their natural behaviours. We want to replicate their natural environment as much as possible to keep our hamsters healthy, happy and mentally stimulated.

So, the correct size cage, or rather habitat, for a Syrian hamster measures (L)120cm x (W)50cm x (H)50cm. A Dwarf hamster will need a habitat that measures (L)100cm x (W)50cm x (H)50cm. These are the minimum respective sizes for these two hamster breeds. The correct habitats are not always easy to find, and if you need help finding the right habitat, reach out to us, and we will gladly assist you!

Once you have your habitat, the next consideration is where to place it. 

Here are a few pointers:

1. If you have other pets, the habitat should be placed outside their reach or in a room with a door that can be kept closed, especially when owning cats. Ensure that the object you place the habitat onto is big enough for its size and sufficiently sturdy to carry the weight.
2. Hamsters are very susceptible to heat and cold. Do not place the habitat in direct sunlight or in a draft. Do not place your hamster's habitat outside.
3. Choose a room or an area in your house that is relatively quiet. Your hamster will adapt to the noises of its environment but will still be easily startled by loud sounds and stressed out if the area is too busy.
4. Hamsters are active at night, so you will hear your hamster living its best life when you want to sleep! If everything has to be dead quiet for you to have a good night's sleep, don't put your hamster's habitat in your bedroom.

Hamster-Safe Bedding

Going back to the natural environment of a hamster again, it is important to know what hamsters' behaviours are in the wild. One can say that they have a blueprint which we should stick to as much as possible to ensure the well-being of our furballs.

When it comes to bedding, hamsters need a depth of 25cm-30cm to burrow and make tunnels and dens - just as they would in nature, covering at least one-third to half of the floor space in the habitat. The remaining part of the floor space may be covered with a different substrate to add a variety of textures.

Unscented, dust-free paper bedding is the safest and most economical option for burrowing and tunnelling. It is warm, comfortable, highly absorbent and would not require constant replacement. It also condenses just right so that your hamster's tunnels stay intact. Scented bedding is toxic to our gnawing friends, and they hate scents other than their own, so don't give in to the temptation to fragrance their environment.

Safe Dry and Fresh Foods For Hamsters

Dry Foods

As with everything else, countless options and brands are available when buying food for your hamster. It is important to remember that a Syrian hamster will need a different mix of dry food than a Dwarf hamster. These two breeds' nutrients, proteins, and fats ratios differ. Dwarf hamsters are also prone to diabetes, so sugary foods and ingredients should be kept to a minimum. 

Dry Foods To Avoid

1. Pelleted food mixes. There is very little nutrition in the pellets for hamsters; the more pellets added to a food mix, the less nutritious for hamsters.
2. Food mixes that contain a lot of sunflower seeds, corn, and peanuts are too high in fat and have little nutrient value for your hamster.
3. Raisins are toxic to all hamsters. Avoid dry food mixes containing them or remove them from the food before feeding your hamster.
4. Remove dried fruits from a dry food mix before feeding your hamster. Dried fruits are sticky and cause irritation if stuck on your hamster's teeth.
5. Any dry food that is made for other rodents, like rats.

We recommend buying a Syrian Dry Food Mix or Dwarf Dry Food Mix for your specific hamster breed. These mixes are well-balanced and contain the correct ratio of everything your hamster needs.

Fresh Foods to Feed Your Hamster

Hamsters are omnivores and need fresh fruit, vegetables and protein as a part of a healthy diet. These offer hamsters a variety of textures and flavours, just as they would in the wild, as well as wholesome nutrition. 

Small amounts of fresh foods must be part of your hamster's daily diet, limiting fruits and sugary veggies for Dwarf hamsters. Like us, hamsters can become bored if fed the same fresh foods daily. It is, therefore, essential to feed your hamster various fresh foods every week.

It is important to know which fresh fruits, vegetables, and proteins are unsafe for your hamster, which veggies shouldn't be fed raw, and how specific proteins should be cooked. Click here for a complete list of safe and unsafe foods for your hamster.

Last but not least is water. Always ensure that your hamster has fresh water, and if you are not sure if it prefers water in a bowl or in a drinking bottle, put both in the habitat. Providing purified water is also much better for your hamster's health. 

Hamster-Safe Accessories and Enrichment for the Habitat

Following nature's way, your hamster's habitat must be filled with accessories and enrichment to encourage natural behaviour. So, let's imagine what that may look like!

In the wild, hamsters constantly forage for food like seeds, grains, insects and roots by stuffing their pouches to the brim and then taking their precious cargo to the underground tunnels and dens they constructed in meadows and grasslands - away from bad weather and other animals and ready to eat later.

Our pet hamsters are much the same as their wild friends. They forage, stuff their cute little cheeks and then disappear into their burrows to store their stockpiles for hard times! As hamster owners, we should ensure that the accessories we choose for our hamsters' habitats will best imitate their natural environments to encourage instinctive behaviour. Here is our starter list:

Choose The Correct Size Hamster Wheel That Won't Injure Your Hamster

Just like their wild friends, hamsters need to run and be active. But most people unknowingly buy the wrong size wheel for their new hamster. Here are the correct minimum sizes for our two South African hamster breeds:

Wheel Size for a Syrian Hamster: 27cm - 35cm in diameter  

Wheel Size for a Dwarf Hamster: 21cm - 30cm in diameter   

Small wheels are not recommended for hamsters because they must curve their spines while running, which can cause back and hip problems over time. A hamster's spine should be straight when running, never curved. 

1. Flying Saucers: These wheels cause a hamster's spine to curve (almost like a "C") and are responsible for spinal and hip problems with prolonged use. While it may be funny when a hamster flies off its saucer, it's a pretty scary moment for the hamster, and the chances of injury are high.
2. A wheel with bars across each side of its frame is hazardous. If your hamster climbs off while the wheel is still turning, it can get caught between the bar and the frame and get seriously or fatally injured.
3. Wheels with a barred surface or mesh may also harm your hamster. Sometimes, hamsters' feet get caught between the bars or mesh while running. Unfortunately, this may cause accidental amputation of the feet or toes. The running surface of a wheel should always be solid. If you have the correct size wheel, but it's meshed or barred, line the inside with cut-to-size cork sheets and secure them with non-toxic glue so they will not come off.
4. Hamster exercise balls are also unsuitable and dangerous. The first problem is that these exercise balls are too small for hamsters and will cause spine and hip issues. The second problem is insufficient ventilation, even with ventilation gaps, causing low oxygen levels and increased temperature inside the ball. The third problem is that the oxygen gaps in the ball pose a risk for your hamster's tiny feet and hands to get caught and be seriously injured. The fourth problem is that, while it may not be obvious, a hamster feels really stressed in such a ball. Because hamsters are prey animals, they instinctively seek cover when moving around. Running exposed in any area is highly stressful for hamsters.

Hamster-Safe Substrates

Many options are available for enrichment, such as adding a substrate or two in your hamster's habitat. Substrates provide different and interesting textures that stimulate hamsters' senses. Unfortunately, not all substrates are safe for hamsters. It should be dust- and pine-free to prevent upper respiratory issues and exposure to toxic wood tannins. The following substrates are not recommended for hamsters:

1. Shredded pine or shavings (Pine hideouts are acceptable as a solid piece, but not shavings)
2. Shreddings or shavings of unknown wood sources
3. Scented substrates
4. Cat litter pellets and rabbit pellets
5. Any other cat litter
6. Corn Cob Bedding
7. Newspaper and any other printed paper (the ink is highly toxic to hamsters)
8. Stalky hay or straw (poses a risk to hamsters' eyes)
9. Sawdust
10. Cedar shavings (the wood tannins in these shavings are very harmful to hamsters)
11. Any kind of fabric (hamsters will chew on fabric and stuff the bits into their pouches, which can then be impossible to get out unless with the help of an exotic vet).
12. Nesting "wool" is commonly sold in pet shops. Hamsters can get tangled up, which may cause serious injuries. 

Other Natural Accessories for Your Hamster's Habitat

Hamsters do not climb onto vertical objects such as tree trunks in the wild, but they must climb over large tree roots and pieces of dry wood as they forage for food. They move on various surfaces, which is good for stimulating their senses. We can imitate these environments by bringing natural elements such as pieces of driftwood, sphagnum moss, pebble stones, and coco peat into the habitat. But there are a few crucial steps to take first:

1. Make sure that the type of driftwood you want to get is safe for hamsters.
2. Before adding them to your hamster's enclosure, follow the correct process to sterilise driftwood pieces and pebble stones.
3. Washed coco peat, such as spider peat, is safe to use as "soil." However, it should be dried in the oven before it's added to your hamster's habitat.
4. Spaghnum moss is the safest type of moss for your hamster's enclosure. It can be placed around different objects to add a natural touch. Freeze it for 48 hours before adding it to the habitat.
5. Another great texture to add is the Chispi Snake substrate. This is great for hiding enrichment toys and boredom breakers while encouraging your hamster's digging instinct.
6. Soft, unscented, dust-free nesting material (not fabric) is an excellent addition to the habitat, especially during winter, to provide extra warmth.
7. Scattering hamster-specific foraging mixes into the habitat is a great way to get those little whiskers going!
8. Hiding safe and nutritious hamster treats (in moderation, of course!) in the habitat will send your hamster on a treasure hunt that activates all those happy hormones in Floof's brain.
9. Bendy bridges allow your hamster to reach somewhat elevated surfaces, like food and water islands.
10. During our harsh South African winter months, a heating pad with the correct wattage must be placed under the habitat where your hamster plays. As mentioned, our furry friends are very sensitive to hot and cold temperatures. If they become too cold, they can go into torpor (torpor is often confused with hibernation). Torpor can be deadly if the hamster is not discovered and safely heated in time.
11. Food and water bowls should be sturdy enough not to tip over when your hamster supports itself on the edges while eating and drinking.
12. Hamsters keep their coats clean by bathing in sand and grooming their coats. But most commercial bathing sand for hamsters is too dusty and may be scented, which is bad for your hamster's health. Ensure that you are buying hamster-safe sand for bathing and litterbox use.
13. Like humans, hamsters need a bath with enough sand and space to roll around in. Who wouldn't like that, right? A mason jar placed on its side that is large enough in diameter for your specific hamster will serve well as a litterbox...or litter jar. Put a scoop or two of the bath sand or dried coconut peat in the jar, and replace the sand/coconut peat every day after disinfecting the jar.
14. Regarding disinfecting items in your hamster's habitat, F10 SCXD concentrate is a non-toxic, highly effective disinfectant veterinarians use. It is long-lasting because it must be diluted with water, and you can clean your hamster's habitat and all the items in there as often as needed.
15. Last but not least, get your hamster a travel cage for trips to the vet, etc.

So, once you have decided whether to get a Syrian or a Dwarf hamster, use this checklist to get all the basics together that your new hamster will need.

If you need assistance or more information, please contact us. We will gladly assist you!

 

Resources:

Pawsome Pals obtained this valuable information from Hamsters South Africa -  https://www.hamsterssouthafrica.com/